Frequently Asked Questions

Main Topics:

Brushing/Matting

I brush my dog almost every day, yet the groomer says he's always matted. How can that be?

It might be that you’re using the wrong equipment to brush your dog, or that you’re using the right tools but simply are not brushing thoroughly enough. For most coats, you’ll need a slicker brush and a metal comb. Soft bristle brushes won’t penetrate the fur all the way to the skin on most coats, so they’re basically useless for brushing out most dogs. And most people are great at keeping the dog’s BACK well brushed, because it’s the easiest to reach on a wiggling, happy puppy. But don’t forget the dog’s legs—both INSIDE and outside—and the neck, tail, and face, too.

How do I know if I’ve combed my dog out completely?

That’s an easy one: After you’ve brushed your dog out completely, take your metal comb and put it into the fur until the tips lie against your dog’s skin. Now rake through EVERY inch of your pet’s fur, top-to-bottom, front-to-back, plus inside the dog’s legs and on his chest, belly, and neck. Don’t forget his tail, too! The comb should go through your dog’s coat like butter. If you find your comb stops and can’t continue, that means you’ve hit a MAT.

What IS a mat, and what causes them?

A mat is the dog's hair that has become tangled together, so tangled that it forms a lump of hair that you cannot get a comb though at all.
Mats are caused by the dog’s naturally shedding hair that is not brushed out. ALL dogs shed. Yes, even the “shedless” dogs, like Poodles, Bichons and other such breeds. Mats are simply the old fur that is falling out that gets caught and tangles with the new coat. As more and more coat naturally falls out and gets caught in the coat, the mats will get larger, closer to the skin, and tighter. If these mats are not taken out on a regular basis, they become impossible to remove in any way other than shaving the coat completely off.

How do I untangle these mats?

There are several ways, but the best is first pulling it apart with your fingers, and then gently combing out the smaller tangles with your metal comb. Oftentimes using a Detangler Spray, like Coat Handler’s Anti-Static Detangler Spray, helps the comb slide through more easily. If the dog is truly tangled or the mats are too big for you to undo, it’s best to call your groomer immediately and let her or him do it!

My dog is one of those “shedless” breeds. That’s why I bought this type of dog! So I don’t have to worry about shedding and matting, do I?

All dogs shed. Yes, ALL. The reason your dog is “shedless” is because it either has very little fur or because the dog’s coat is naturally curly or wavy. When the fur on a curly or wavy coat (on Poodles, Bichons, Portuguese Water Dogs, etc.) is shedding, it doesn’t come out completely, but “sticks” to the other hairs. As more hair naturally sheds, it is held in by those hairs that haven’t yet been brushed out, and so each day more and more hair is added to the layers. The same is true with Drop-coated breeds.

And what do you mean by "Drop-coated"?

A drop-coated breed is any breed with naturally long, flowing hair: Shih Tzu, Lhasa Apso, Afghan Hounds, Tibetan Terriers, Havanese, Bearded Collies are all examples of drop-coated dogs.

Why does my dog only seem to get more mats on its legs or neck?

Mats tend to form faster wherever there is Rubbing or Pressure Points on the dog. There is rubbing and movement between the dog’s legs when it walks, so you’ll find more matting there. The collar around a dog’s neck rubs the fur constantly, which is why there’s so much matting underneath the collar. Ditto for the base of a happy dog’s tail (all that happy wagging!), and behind its ears, too. You’ll also find mats on a dog’s shoulders and hind quarters from where it lies down, because those are pressure points in contact with the ground or the dog's bed when it is lying down. The LAST place a dog will mat is on its back. That’s the only place on a dog that isn’t rubbing against something, nor is it a pressure point. With this in mind… remember that sweaters put on your dog during cold weather makes him mat up twice as fast! That lovely warm sweater is rubbing against EVERY part of your pet it touches, which means it’ll be forming mats as the dog takes its walk. No problem! Just make sure to brush out (and use your “Mat-Detector” comb afterwards!) your pet as soon as you take the sweater off.

My dog has some bad mats, but I want the coat trimmed to 1” in length.

There is no way to use long clipper blades on a coat that is matted. Long clipper blades or snap-on combs are not physically able to clip through a mat. You either have to clip the coat underneath the mats (which usually means ¼ inch or shorter!), or de-mat the coat completely before the trim.

How much does is cost to de-mat my dog?

The first 5 minutes of de-matting is no extra charge, because anybody’s dog can have a mat or two in the course of everyday playing and living. After the first 5 minutes, it is $60/hr. So if it takes 30 minutes to take out all the mats, there will be $25 added onto your regular grooming fee. (5 minutes free, plus 25 minutes at $60/hr, for $25 total de-matting charge.)

Why is the price for de-matting so expensive?

Two reasons:

  1. De-matting a dog is difficult work that takes a long time. The first 5 minutes of de-matting is free, because anybody’s dog can have a small mat or two that you might have missed in your home brushing. But if your dog has mats all over, and I have to carefully separate those mats without ruining your dog’s beautiful coat, it takes a LOT of time and expertise to do it right.
  2. More importantly, de-matting is usually quite painful for your pet, no matter how careful and gentle your groomer works. It involves pulling on their fur and skin, which is never any fun for dog or the groomer who only wants your dog to be clean, happy, and comfortable!

How can it be painful or take a long time? Aren’t you just cutting out the mats?

No. Correct de-matting takes quite a lot of skill, because it gets rid of all the mats without shortening the coat or taking big chunks out with scissors. Want to know what it feels like to your pet? With your fingers, take a bit of your hair on the side of your neck, right at the bottom of your hairline, and pull. OW!!! That HURTS, doesn’t it? That's how it feels to your pet all over. Unfortunately, the mats most often missed by owners are between the legs, around the neck, or other sensitive areas on your dog. When the mats are close to the skin, it’s almost impossible to get my fingers between the mat and the skin so it doesn’t pull. There simply isn’t enough room. So a gentle tug on the dog’s coat to loosen the mat might mean a sharp tug to your pet. It can HURT, and I hate giving your dog any discomfort!

So how can I avoid paying this huge de-matting fee?

Very simple: COMB your dog out every few days at home! Make sure you brush all the way down to the skin (not just the top layer), and then make sure to run your metal comb through every inch of that coat to see if you find any hidden mats. Remember... Brushing at home is FREE. And it will keep your dog’s coat in the best condition, too!

I've tried brushing out the mats and there's just too many!

If it's too late and your dog is already badly matted, we can just "start over" by shaving her short this time and letting her coat grow back in nice and evenly all over. Hair always grows back, and it grows back a lot faster than you'd think! Sometimes Starting Over with a short clip is a much better solution than putting your beloved pet through an hour or more of painful de-matting. And with that short trim it's easy to keep up with the growing coat to keep it nice and completely brushed out as it grows!

My dog’s fur gets has so much static when I brush. What can I use to stop that?

I have a terrific Detangler/Anti-static spray available to fix such a problem. It’s perfect for helping take out mats and keeping the coat static and dust-free. Coat Handler Detangler spray comes in 12 oz bottles that will last the average owner months! Feel free to call me at (831) 840-4568 to order this wonderful spray or any other grooming tool you need to keep your pet in perfect condition.

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General Grooming Questions:

At what age should I start grooming my new puppy?

At home you should start getting your puppy used to brushing and combing immediately, within the first week. Let them know that Groom Time is not Play Time, so they cannot bite the brush or your hand while you are grooming. Keep the grooming time short at first: just 5 minutes when they are very young. As they get a few months older make the brushing sessions longer, and gently insist that they stand or lie still so you can comb between their legs, on their necks, etc. The sooner you start training them to submit quietly, the easier it is on both of you!

When should my puppy have its first professional grooming?

It’s safest for the puppy if you wait until he’s had at least his first 2 sets of shots. It’s best to start your puppy’s pro grooming as soon as possible so it can become used to the usual noises and activities of grooming. Make sure to bring your pup’s vaccination records with you on that first visit to show your groomer.

I’ve heard it’s not good for my dog to be bathed more than a couple times a year. Is that true?

Not at all. Most dogs benefit greatly from frequent bathing, as long as gentle, pet-safe shampoos are used and are well-rinsed from your dog’s coat. How often your dog needs to be bathed depends on the breed and its life style. Long (drop-coated) breeds such as Afghan Hounds, Shih Tzus, Havanese, etc., are often bathed weekly to keep the coat dirt- and tangle-free. Frequent bathing also helps dogs with allergies to dust mites or local pollens: Bathing eleminates those mites and pollens from the coat so your dog doesn't feel so itchy! Also, dogs who live at the beach and love nothing better than to roll all over dead seals need frequent baths too if they ever want their owners near them again! Many show dogs are bathed before and after every show weekend—which could mean baths every 3 to 5 days, and they have the healthiest, most beautiful coats imaginable. The shampoos available on the market these days are safe and gentle for your pet. If you choose the right one for your dog, it will not dry out their skin or coat any more than your shampoo does for your family! Just ask your groomer which shampoo and conditioner would best suit your pet’s needs.

Won't cutting my dog's hair short in the summer help keep him cool?

Actually, no.  A dog's coat acts as insulation against the heat as well as the cold. The key is to keep it brushed. It is actually the air that is trapped between the individual hairs that enhances the insulating effect. Matted hair simply traps heat against the skin. Removing the excess dead undercoat will help your dog regulate its temperature better without risking sunburn or heatstroke.   If the coat is badly matted, not only is it uncomfortable for the poor dog, it causes skin problems and sores as well. If the coat is too badly matted to brush out, shaving is the only option.

Do you sedate dogs?

We never use any sedation or tranquilizers of any kind.

Do you groom cats?

Sorry, no. We only groom dogs.

Can I bring a treat for my dog?

Yes! We’ll be happy to give your dog one of your own treats as a reward for a job well done. We also encourage owners to bring in their dog’s special blanket or a toy to make them feel more at home and comfortable.

I’m only asking for my groomer to trim my dog’s long hair an inch all over. Why is it costing more than just a bath?

It’s actually more work to take off “just a little” of a very long coat than it is to trim a coat down to 1 inch or shorter. When I shorten a 4” long coat just a little bit, I hand-scissor every inch of the coat using special shears, much like a hairdresser would on a human’s haircut. It takes a great deal of work and precision to make the coat look natural, but slightly shorter than before.

Why doesn’t my groomer know what I want when I say I want a Puppy Cut?

Expect for Poodles, there is no real trim called a “Puppy Cut.” But I know that you mean you want your dog’s coat short & fluffy and cute like it did when it was a puppy. That fluffy look can mean different lengths to different people. And some people like the head hair shortened too, others like it left longer. So when you ask for a Puppy Cut I’ll ask lots of questions to make sure I trim your dog’s coat to exactly the length and style you want.

I’m not sure what trim I want for my dog, but I know I want it to look cute. What should I do?

You can always bring in photos of a trim you like. Sometimes pictures are worth a thousand words! Once I see the photo we can modify it to best fit your dog. Or check out my “Gallery” and “BEFORE & AFTER” sections on this website, and see if there’s some clips you might like. I groom each dog on an individual basis. No “Cookie-cutter” clips here! I’ll work with you and your pet to make sure the trim we choose is best for your dog’s coat and life style.

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Fleas, fleas, FLEAS!!!

I can’t see any fleas on my dog, but he scratches all the time…. What could be causing him to scratch?

Unless your dog is on continuous flea prevention medication all year around, he probably DOES have fleas. Fleas are experts at hiding, and it’s very difficult to see them on most coats. 90% of the “unknown scratching problems” that I see on dogs are caused by flea infestation. Only rarely is it a skin problem or food allergy that is causing the itching.

Should I use flea control all year?

It’s a really good idea. Since we live in California so near the coast, the weather is perfect for breeding fleas like crazy. Our weather is nice and warm, with lots of moisture all year ‘round too, so fleas do not die out in the wintertime here as they would in colder climates. There might be less fleas in the winter, but they are still there plaguing your poor dog. Keeping your dog on a good flea preventative like Frontline or Revolution or Advantage all year around is best for your dog’s health. Talk to your vet to find out which would best suit your dog’s needs.

Should I buy my dog a Flea collar?

Don’t waste your money. Flea collars didn’t work 25 years ago when that was all we had, and they STILL don’t work. I’ve seen many dogs with flea collars that were infested with fleas. Talk to your vet to find out what he/she recommends for getting rid of fleas and ticks.

My dog is an “indoor” dog… She almost never goes outside except to potty. So how could she have fleas?

Fleas don’t usually live on the dog, they live in carpets, they live on furniture, bedding, and lawns. It only takes a minute of your dog being outside to pick up fleas and bring them into the house where they then set up comfortably and start multiplying in their nice new warm environment.

My dogs are all on a good Flea Prevention Medication, yet they still sometimes get fleas. Why is that?

Since fleas travel on the warm bodies of all animals, they could have easily been brought into your yard by stray cats wandering around your neighborhood. Or by squirrels, deer, gophers, and most any other animals. Then the fleas hop off the stray cat, squirrel, etc., and make them selves at home on your lawn, just waiting for your dog to walk by to they can hitch a ride once again. It is best to spray your yard and especially around the house and yard’s perimeter on occasion to keep the fleas away if you find your dog is still getting fleas.

What’s the best Flea medication to buy?

There are several good brands out there, the best being a topical solution that you put on your dog’s back once a month. The ones that work the best are Frontline, Revolution, and Advantage. Personally, I’d suggest staying away from the Flea meds found at your local grocery store, such as Hartz. Because we live in such a moist, warm-climate area that is perfect for fleas, the lesser brands of flea meds don’t seem to be strong enough to kill the fleas on your dog. Talk to your Veterinarian about this, because he/she is the expert. Your vet will be able to explain the differences between each brand and suggest the one that’s best for your pet.

It’s Flea Season and my dog is still getting fleas, even though I’ve had him on flea meds. Should I put the Frontline/Advantage/Revolution on my dog every 2 weeks instead?

Please talk to your vet before putting ANY medications on your dog more often than the recommended amount, because it could harm your pet. You might need to switch to a different flea med, or have your house and/or yard sprayed for fleas. And make sure your other pets (especially cats that go outdoors!) are also on a good flea preventative, too. Again, always talk to your vet if you have any questions.

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Shampoos & Conditioners:

I wash my dog at home sometimes. What Shampoo do you recommend?

I’m not too particular about shampoos, as long as you pick something very gentle and tearless for your dog. Just make sure you do not use one of those “Shampoo/Conditioner-In-One” products. It is VERY important for the shampoo to be rinsed completely out of your dog’s coat, where conditioner is meant to be left IN the coat. If you’re using an All-In-One combination, you cannot do either one effectively.

What shampoo do you use in your business?

I use a variety of shampoos depending on your dog’s coat condition. I use Nature’s Choice “Hypo A” aloe shampoo for sensitive skin for most of the dogs I groom. It’s a wonderful Hypo-allergenic Shampoo that is very gentle and safe for all breeds, and cleans beautifully. I have an oatmeal shampoos for dogs with dry, itchy skin that soothes and moisturizes. And I have many other shampoos for a variety of conditions: medicated shampoos, shampoos specially formulated for harsh coats (hand-stripped terrier coats, for example), for whitening coats, or fixing sun-damaged coats, etc. Just let me know if your dogs has any special issues or concerns when you bring him in, and I’ll adjust my shampoo accordingly!

My dog is always so wonderfully soft when he comes home from his grooming! What do you use on him to make him that way?

We use a special Leave-In Conditioner from Coat Handler that I’ve used on my show dogs (Afghan Hounds) for years. It is formulated to help keep the coat soft, dirt repellent and tangle free. And it smells terrific! I sell bottles of it—and the Coat Handler Detangler Spray—for your home use.

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